An obsession with Japan took me straight to the V&A in South Kensington to see recently opened 'Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk' exhibition. This stunning show traces the evolution of the singular but dynamic Kimono, revealing its aesthetic and social significance.
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| Final Section |
My obsession with Japanese culture started in secondary school where I had the opportunity learn Japanese. I won't lie, the main reason for taking this subject was the prospect of a trip to Japan, which I was lucky enough to go on when I was 15. A particularly special memory for me was being dressed in the Kimono owned by my host family (the photo of me in this kimono is still displayed proudly in my parent's living room).
This beautiful exhibition is centred around this single garment. It explores in great depth the origins of Japan's national dress and its international influence, from the 1600s up to modern day. The exhibition was designed by Storey Studio, who have created a series of beautiful rooms evoking aspects of Japanese design.
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| Entrance |
The entrance space is a hue of blue and green with delicate sheets hung from the ceiling and swaying gently. The first section evokes a traditional Japanese tea house - matcha green, paper walls, bamboo, the sound of chimes. The graphics are even printed on paper scrolls fixed to beechwood structures. There are other nods to Japanese features throughout the exhibition, including gravel inspired by rock gardens and a mock-bonsai tree in the last section.
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| First Section |
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| Outer-kimono for a young woman 1800 – 30 |
The first section concentrates on the Edo period (1603-1868), going into detail about the creation of the kimono. Expect lots of silk, embroidery and intricate woodblock art. On display are examples worn by both men and women, and also an abundance of beautiful accessories that accompany the kimono.
After exploring the genesis of the kimono, we move through the garment's strong influence on fashion in Europe and beyond from the 17th century. This area is a deep red, and connects to the sense of luxury that the kimono represented at this time.
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| Kimonos for a young woman, 1905–20, probably Kyoto, Japan. |
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| Left: Photos of the Meiji period, right: woodblock art by Yoshu Chikanobu |
The final room is a bright, white, dreamy space full of vibrant kimono-style designs used in theatre, films and haute couture. One of Freddie Mercury's lounging robes is on display. Mercury was attracted to the androgynous quality of the kimono and often wore them during performances with Queen. Next to this is a Jean-Paul Gautier kimono, worn by Madonna, and then the iconic kimono designed by Alexander McQueen and worn by Björk that featured on her album cover Homogenic. There is even an Obi-Wan Kenobi costume from Star Wars that highlights how the uniform of the Jedi Knight was influenced by the kimono.
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| Final Section |
It is a beautiful show that highlights how this garment was ahead of its time and continues to be influential today. The exhibition opened on 29th February, and it closes on the 21st June 2020.
Please note that at the time of posting, the V&A Museum was temporarily closed.
Link to the website is here.
